ABOVE THE BRIM
… with TYRONE BARFIELD
TYRONE BARFIELD represents the path less traveled in head wear. Preferring to craft his pieces by hand, Mr. BARFIELD’s caps have the kind of bespoke tailoring you would expect to find in a $2,500.00 suit. The BARFIELD line of head wear has included snap-backs, leather adjustables, apple jacks and our personal fixation – fitted baseball caps. The appeal of the BARFIELD goes beyond its superior construction and attention to detail. It’s the unexpected selection of fabrics and leather that give it the trademark look. Without mistake, you will recognize an BARFIELD original from 60 paces. With severely limited number runs, don’t expect to find these caps at your local street wear boutiques. We’ve seen Japanese retailers offering vintage BARFIELD pieces for as much as 15,400 yen ($126.00).
STRICTLY FITTEDS caught up with the elusive and highly talented designer over the weekend. The meeting represented the culmination of a six month search. After a long trail of emails, text messages and phone calls, we found ourselves in the studio of a true man of many hats known simply as BARFIELD. STRICTLY FITTEDS gained unprescidented access to the BARFIELD archives. Enjoy the exclusive pics of classics and upcoming heat from the TYRONE BARFIELD head wear collection.
SF: What was your introduction into fashion?
TB: I began my career in 1997. At the time I was working for a Company called ZYDECO. It was located near the Brooklyn water front in D.U.M.B.O. Soon after I searched for stylish shops that were into unique and rare pieces. My target fabric of choice at the time was the Shemagh or Khufiah. This happen around 911. People were traumatized and I didn’t want to support anything that reminded them of what had happen. But never the less, in 2002 the caps debuted in UNION, with the help of a buyer by the name of CHRIS GIBBS.
SF: What is your design process?
TB: Basically I’m in tune into myself, and not others. I’m in competition with myself. Everything must go through the mind stage. I see the overall image of it first.
SF: Explain what creates the BARFIELD signature look?
TB: The Barfield look is art within art. Anyone could create a cap with unusual fabric and then call themselves a designer – that’s the opposite of me. It’s not just fabric randomly placed on a cap, but a sensitivity to the materials, colors and patterns.
SF: What influences your style and creative choices?
TB: I’m riding this creative wave that discovered about myself since I began. Some store owners point out my influence of color, style and design on other style brands and ask me, ”WHO DO YOU THINK SPARKED THAT IDEA ?” Hmmm… like I really have to respond.
SF: What inspired you to focus of baseball caps?
TB: Well to be frank there wasn’t any comp, you know?! Everyone had simple Black, Blue and Grey caps. My mind has limitations of no sort. I felt like I could make steer the market to where I wanted it to be driven. You can search and you will find that no one has the type of control over their own product as I do.
SF: What single factor do think has contributed most to the “rebirth” of the fitted cap? What is your take on the current “cap craze”?
TB: The craze is started way back in the day. Everybody needed caps to match their kicks – I’m talking like early 80′s. But recently, I would say JAY-Z. He wore a fitted baseball cap in a video, I can’t remember, snug down on his head where you could only see his chin. That started it all. Soon enough, the bitters took off with it. The only way to get that look on most cats was to get a bigger size.
SF: What are the advantages and disadvantages of hand tailoring a cap have over machine constructed pieces?
TB: The lacking of embroidery is a disadvantage. The advantages are countless. Maneuvering for one. I can change any and everything with out being charged for it by a manufacturer.
SF: Your caps are short run, hand made limited edtions. You seldom repeat any designs. What is the science behind this approach?
TB: CLASSIC … EXCLUSIVE … LIMITED GOODS, which cost money, and only the true like minded people know that art has no price, and that a classic will be timeless.
SF: Your caps appear in select boutiques in the States and Japan.What do you see as the future of the TYRONE BARFIELD brand?
TB: More uncommon, as well as much more high end pieces. Just in case you didn’t know, but I stared off as a high end designer.
SF: How would you like to be received by the buying public? What is your market?
TB: They should know that what I offer is more than just a cap. They should appreciate excellent bespoke tailoring. That’s charm and crafted by a unique styling technique, which only one person is producing and not a factory.
SF: Thanks for taking the time out to talk with us. Any shout outs?
TB: The greatest Creator and Architect of life…. and to my wife, my family and last but not least … Lafayette Gardens and the entire Bedford-Stuyvesant. PEACE!
BARFIELD CAPS can be found at:
OTTO TOOTSI PLOHOUND (STACKHOUSE)
273 Layfayette St
New York, NY
212.431.7299
VINNIE STYLES
160 Flatbush Ave,
Brooklyn, NY 11217
718.636.9787
PIECES Harlem
228 W. 135th St., (near Seventh Ave)
New York, NY 10030
212.234.1725
PIECES Brooklyn
671 Vanderbilt Ave,
Brooklyn, NY
718.857.7211
Photos: sFs GFX
